About A Second Remaining El Capitan

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Warning: Please follow these instructions at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damage or information loss that could result from following this guide. Also, note that installing OS X on PC is illegal. Please buy a real Mac if you're satisfied with your Hackintosh. This guide is for evaluation purposes only.

El Capitan had not been soloed. I had not climbed the John Muir Route. It was the obvious choice. And this would be the second ascent, which would give me something to gloat over, if I were inclined to gloat, which I am, secretly. The story of the epic first ascent by TM Herbert and Yvon Chouinard has been well told in the A.A.J., 1966. First things first. We need to prepare a USB thumb drive that will contain the installation files as well as the bootloader and custom kexts for our specific Hackintosh build. Download El Capitan from the Mac App Store. Head over to your existing OS X environment running 10.9 or later and open the Mac App Store.

Requirements

  • An Intel-based PC with UEFI bios
  • A USB flash drive with at least 16GB capacity
  • A dedicated hard drive (SSD highly recommended)
  • A computer running OS X (10.9 or later) for preparing the installation USB flash drive

I chose to avoid the UniBeast installer (by Tonymacx86) because of its commercialized nature, as described here. Here is a vanilla guide to installing El Capitan on your PC!

Preparing the USB Installation Drive

First things first. We need to prepare a USB thumb drive that will contain the installation files as well as the bootloader and custom kexts for our specific Hackintosh build.

Download El Capitan from the Mac App Store

Head over to your existing OS X environment running 10.9 or later and open the Mac App Store.

Search for 'El Capitan' and click Download. The download is completely free if you're running OS X 10.9+.

Wait for the download to finish (this could take some time).

Format the USB Drive

Open Disk Utility in Applications/Utilities and locate your USB device. Make sure you've backed up anything important on that drive as it will be erased forever.

Select it, and then on the right, click the partition tab.

  1. Click Curent Layout and change it to 1 Partition.
  2. Set the Name to USB.
  3. Set the Format to Mac OS Extended (Journaled).
  4. Click Options and select GUID Partition Table.

Click Apply to format the drive.

Copy the Installation Files to the USB Drive

Now that we've downloaded the installation files from the Mac App Store and formatted our USB drive, let's copy the installation files to it.

Run the following command in the Terminal (Applications/Utilities):

The command will run a script inside the Install OS X El Capitan application that will copy the installation files to the USB drive.

This process takes about 15 minutes. Go out for a quick run, or a hamburger, or both. When you come back, it should have finished.

Installing a Bootloader

If you tried to boot from the USB drive as is after the previous step on a PC, it wouldn't work. We need a bootloader that makes it possible to boot OS X on x86 and x86_64 PCs.

There are 3 popular bootloaders to choose from.

  • Clover
  • Chameleon
  • Chimera

I went with Clover as it seems to be the most popular choice among other El Capitan installers, mostly for the following reasons:

Clover is an open-source EFI-based bootloader created on Apr 4, 2011. It has a totally different approach from Chameleon and Chimera. It can emulate the EFI portion present on real Macs and boot the OS from there instead of using the regular legacy BIOS approach used by Chameleon and Chimera. For many, Clover is considered the next-gen bootloader and soon it will become the only choice since BIOS in being replaced by UEFI in every new motherboard. One big feature of Clover is that iMessage, iCloud, the Mac App Store works along with Find My Mac, Back To My Mac and FileVault since Clover can use the EFI partition. (Read more)

Install Clover on Your USB Drive

Installing Clover on your USB drive is relatively easy. It involves running an installation wizard and selecting some options.

Download the latest Clover installer from here.

  1. Run the installer.
  2. Click Continue twice.
  3. Click Change Install Location and set it to your formatted USB drive.
  4. Click Customize and check the following options:
    • [x] Install for UEFI booting only
    • [x] Install Clover in the ESP
    • [ ] Drivers64UEFI
      • [x] OsxAptioFixDrv-64 - fixes memory map created by AMI Aptio EFI. Booting OS X is impossible otherwise.
Second
  1. Click Install and wait for the installation to finish. It shouldn't take more than a minute.
Copy Essential Kexts to the USB Drive

Next, we'll need to copy some kexts (kernal extensions, similar to drivers on Windows) to the USB drive.

  • FakeSMC.kext - open source SMC device driver/emulator developed by netkas. Tricks OS X into thinking it's installed on Apple hardware. Absolutely required for Hackintosh installation.
  • NullCPUPowerManagement.kext - disables AppleIntelCPUPowerManagement.kext which may cause kernel panics when you try to boot from the USB drive. It's optional, copy it only if you get an AppleIntelCPUPowerManagement-related kernel panic.
  • ApplePS2Controller.kext and AppleACPIPS2Nub.kext - adds support for PS2 devices (such as PS2 keyboard/mouse). They're optional, copy them only if you still use PS2 devices.

Download these files from here and copy them to the EFI mounted volume at /EFI/Clover/kexts/10.11/.

Now that the installation USB drive is ready, let's install OS X El Capitan!

Boot from the USB Drive

Restart your computer and boot from the USB drive (Press Esc/F8/Del to access the boot selection menu).

Use the arrow keys to select Boot OS X Install from Install OS X El Capitan (It should be selected by default). Press the spacebar and select Boot Mac OS X in verbose mode. Verbose mode means that you'll be able to see exactly what's going on under the hood as OS X attempts to boot up its installer. You'll be able to see the exact error message if booting fails.

Press Enter and cross your fingers. Clover will now boot the installer from your USB drive. This could take some time, in my case, it takes around 5 minutes (Don't worry -- the startup time is around 5 seconds after installing on an SSD).

Did it fail?

It's more than likely that the boot will fail. Don't panic (ha-ha), as kernel panics usually mean that you forgot to copy an essential kext to the EFI partition. Look up the exact error you're getting before the boot log comes to an end and search Google for a solution.

Once you find an additional kext that your system needs, you'd attempt to copy it to the EFI volume, only to discover that it's gone! Not to worry, it's just unmounted and hidden. Follow this guide to mount the hidden partition, and then, follow the Copy Essential Kexts section above to copy it to the USB drive's EFI partition.

Format the Target Hard Drive

Once the installation wizard boots, the next step is to prepare the hard drive that you want to install OS X on.

Click Continue, followed by Disk Utility.

Select the target drive to install to (not the USB drive!) and click the Erase button. Make sure to back up anything important on that drive, as it will be deleted forever.

  1. Set the Name to El Capitan.
  2. Set the Format to OS X Extended (Journaled).
  3. Set the Scheme to GUID Partition Map.

Click Erase to format the drive.

Install OS X to the Target Drive

Exit the Disk Utility and click Install OS X.

Click Show All Disks and select the drive you just formatted to install OS X on it. Finally, click Install.

The process takes about 25 minutes. Be patient. For me, it hung at the end ('1 second remaining') for around 5 minutes. Don't be tempted to reset or cancel the installation.

When that's done, the system will reboot. Make sure to boot from the USB device again, and select Boot OS X Install from Install OS X El Capitan once again, in verbose mode. The installation is a two-part process that continues once you re-boot into the USB drive.

Finally, after about 25 more minutes, OS X El Capitan should be successfully installed on the target drive.

Boot into El Capitan via the USB Device

After the second reboot, boot from the USB device once again, but this time, select Boot OS X from El Capitan, and select verbose mode.

Press Enter and cross your fingers again. If all goes well, you'll be presented with the setup wizard:

Take a minute to set up your new Hackintosh. Once you're done, there are a few things you need to do to finish off the installation.

Reinstall Clover on the Hackintosh Drive

In the previous step, we used Clover on our USB drive to boot our Hackintosh. This is fine, but most of us aren't going to keep that USB drive plugged in forever. Let's make it possible to boot El Capitan independently by reinstalling Clover on it.

Go back up to the Install Clover on Your USB Drive section and follow the steps again, but this time, select your El Capitan volume instead of the USB drive.

Once again, copy the essential kexts to the EFI partition that shows up after installing Clover.

Finally, make sure to add Clover EFI boot options which is possible by pressing Clover Boot Options in the Clover boot window (if there are 2 boot options -- find the one for your SATA drive). I literally spent 3 hours figuring out why Clover would not boot when I disconnected the USB drive before I figured out that I need to manually add the EFI boot options.

Now you'll be able to boot directly from the El Capitan hard drive, as it should be!

About A Second Remaining El Capitan
Audio and Networking

If you're lucky, audio and networking will work right out of the box. If not, you're on your own from here. You'll need to research your exact hardware (by using System Information in Applications/Utilities) and searching Google to find the right kext or installer to make it work on El Capitan.

Clover Themes

The default Clover theme is pretty ugly (no offense). Check out this theme database to improve Clover's appearance.

This is YosemiteLogin by xenatt:

Enjoy!

That's it! Enjoy your new Hackintosh, and if you absolutely love it, consider buying a Mac!

Mayan Smith-Gobat (born 1979) is a professional big-wall climber from New Zealand and, as of 2019, held the record for fastest all-female team ascent of El Capitan's The Nose in Yosemite, California at four hours and forty three minutes. Smith-Gobat, along with climbing partner Libby Sauter, completed the climb in October, 2014. Other notable ascents include her 2012 first female ascent (FFA) of Punks in the Gym (5.14a) in the Arapiles climbing region of Australia, and the first all female Half Dome/El Cap link up in Yosemite in 2013.

About A Second Remaining El Capitan

Early life[edit]

Smith-Gobat is from Christchurch, New Zealand. Although she became interested in alpine and sport climbing around Mount Cook as a teenager, her focus turned to alpine skiing for several years. In 2000, she was competing in extreme skiing competitions and ranked as the best female extreme skier in New Zealand.[1] Smith-Gobat recalls that 'when I left school I became side-tracked by skiing - I followed winters around the world and barely climbed for a couple of years... until a skiing accident turned my attention back to climbing' at the age of 21.[2] Smith-Gobat had been skiing in Breckenridge, Colorado at the time of the accident, a run-in with a pine tree. The collision broke a heel in one leg and ankle in the other, and left her with a temporarily wired-shut jaw and six months of crutches. Grounded from skiing, Smith-Gobat turned to climbing as an outlet for her energies.[3]

Climbing Achievements[edit]

After recovery from her accident, Smith-Gobat began racking up a string of sport climbing and bouldering accomplishments. Starting in 2002, Smith-Gobat made FFAs of many New Zealand-based bouldering routes and won the New Zealand National Bouldering Series in 2002, 2003 and 2004, and the Christchurch Indoor Bouldering Series in 2005. By 2007 she was climbing up to 8b+ (V10/5.14a) level routes, including a first ascent Heaven/ Little Babylon (8b/8b+) in Milford, NZ.[1] By the late 2000s, Smith-Gobat was one of the leading climbers from New Zealand, male or female, as the first New Zealander to complete an 8c level climb, with L’academicien in Ceuse, France.[4]

Salathé Wall[edit]

By 2009, Smith-Gobat was climbing in Yosemite and interested in taking on big-wall challenges. The Salathé Wall is a classic route up El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. At approximately 3500 ft and 35-pitches, it is also one of the longest routes, known for its difficult, off-width crack sections. A single female climber, Steph Davis, had previously free climbed Salathé. Smith-Gobat spent the summer of 2010 working out the beta for the crux sections before making a ground-up attempt. Unfortunately, a five-day rain storm hit while she was in the upper reaches of the climb, forcing her to bail out.[5] In 2011, Smith-Gobat returned and, in a six day final push, managed to complete the remaining pitches, becoming only the second woman to do so.[6] Later, she described the experience as '900m of air under my feet and only one single flared crack splitting the sheer overhung granite wall. It felt so good.'[7]

About A Second Remaining El Capitan

Speed Climbing The Nose[edit]

Smith-Gobat became interested in attempting to break the women's record for climbing speed on The Nose after hearing how slow the old one was. 'I first started thinking about doing it when the women’s record was 12 hours, basically because I felt that this was almost an embarrassment to us.'[8] In 2012, she and partner Chantel Astorga set a new record with a seven hour and 26 minute climb of The Nose. They then linked to Half Dome, becoming the first all female team to complete the linked climb in under 24 hours (at 20h:09m).[9] Smith-Gobat also broke the mixed-gender record for The Nose, finishing it in three hours and 29 minutes with partner Sean Leary.[10] By the end of 2012, between Salathé, a FFA of Australia's iconic Punks in the Gym (8b+) in October, 2012 and the Yosemite speed records, Planet Mountain would describe Smith-Gobat as 'certainly one of the world's leading rock climbers.'[6]

In 2014, with partner Libby Sauter, Smith-Gobat would set a new women's record, four hours and forty three minutes. The women made several attempts that season, improving in speed each time. Smith-Gobat noted that they had to work both on developing trust and communication and to learn a different style of climbing that emphasized speed over safety. The team decreased the number of bolts, increasing the height of any potential fall. On easier sections, the climbers simul-climbed, a higher-risk climbing technique, while on harder sections, they employed a short-fixing style.[11] Smith-Gobat described the technique they used to increase speed as 'pretty risky...if I fall off, I'm hopefully not going to die, but I'm going to fall a hell of a long way before I hit the end of that rope.'[12] She noted that 'the main difference between us and the guys who are climbing it in 2:30, is that they simulclimb more of the upper half of the route, where we are short-fixing more to keep it within the safety margin we are happy with.'[11]

Riders on the Storm[edit]

2016 Attempt[edit]

By 2016, Smith-Gobat had turned her focus towards making the first free ascent of Riders on the Storm, a massive 1300 m (4265 ft) route up the east face of Torre Central in Torres del Paine, Patagonia. The region surrounding Torre Central is notorious for fickle weather and poor conditions. Several key pitches are nearly always encased in ice, and the route, crusted with unstable rock, requires strength in a variety of styles, including crack, roof and face.[13]Wolfgang Güllich and Kurt Albert put up Riders on the Storm over the winter of 1990/1991 using a mixed aid climbing technique.[14] The original climbers were able to free climb pitches up to 7c (5.12d) and aid climb to A3. While the first free ascent of Riders is considered a 'plum objective throughout the big wall climbing world,' according to PlanetMountain , the region's notoriously bad weather and the allure of more popular routes nearby at Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, limited the number of attempts. Up to 2016, three teams successfully reached the summit following Riders on the Storm, none making a free ascent.[15]

Over the course of 15 days in January and February 2016, Smith-Gobat, climbing partner Ines Papert and photographer Thomas Senf broached the climb.[16] The climbers began with a rare stretch of good weather, and were able to establish a five-pitch free climbing variant to avoid a section that had previously only been possible with aid climbing. They also succeeded at free climbing two previously unconquered upper pitches and became the fifth team to reach the summit on February 6. The duo endured numb hands and feet and near-miss rockfalls. At one point, they developed an innovative, but disconcerting, technique to deal with the ice, wearing a climbing shoe on one foot and an ice boot with crampons on the other.[13] After summit day, with deteriorating weather and 110 mph winds in the forecast, the team resolved to try to complete the remaining four pitches they had yet to free climb.

Early on in the attempt, they were delayed for several hours when they found that their cached ropes and equipment had been buried under an avalanche and needed to be dug out. During the ascent, the predicted high winds hit, and after struggling to reach the portaledge, they decided to descend.[17] Continuing bad weather ended the trip without the first free ascent, although they achieved the summit and free climbed several new sections, extending the difficulty level to 7c+ (5.13a). The women had several near misses, surviving a rock fall into their portaledge and another that split Papert's helmet, and a nearly spliced rope. While Smith-Gobat wanted to give the route another try, Papert decided to forgo a second attempt, saying 'I have had a lot of luck on the wall. Even though the prospect of coming back is very tempting, I have decided the level of risk is not worth it.'[13]

About A Second Remaining El Capitan

2017 Attempt[edit]

Smith-Gobat recruited a new partner for the second attempt, up-and-coming climber Brette Harrington, who, at 25 years old, was making a name for herself with trad and free soloing accomplishments.[18] Prior to her return, Smith-Gobat allowed that she wondered why so few others had successfully reached the summit. However, Torre Central presented a new face in 2017, one that made it clear exactly how difficult the task was going to be. 'When Brette Harrington and I approached Torre Central our hearts sank: the lower slabs were covered in ice and ice snow, unrecognizable from last season.' The climbers struggled through the lower sections to reach the four remaining pitches. They had originally planned to free climb all the lower pitches as well, but given poor conditions, they resolved to get to the crux pitches any way they could. In 2016, it took Papert and Smith-Gobat two days to reach the crux, but nearly four weeks the second time.[14] Each morning they would wake at 3am, hoping for a break in the weather, only to encounter punishingly high winds, ice covered slabs, and wet rock. In the end, they were only able to work on the crux pitches for two days out of the six week attempt. Afterwards, Smith-Gobat would write of the experience 'all I wanted to do was leave and never come back. It felt as if we were forcing something that was not meant to be—like swimming against a strong current. I was exhausted ... deep down I knew that leaving would mean never returning to Riders on the Storm. In this moment I hated the place. Hated that it was forcing me to face the one thing that had always terrified me about climbing in Patagonia—to sit still in a tent and wait with nothing to do for weeks on end; to sit and watch all that hard-earned strength waste away, and to what end?'[19]

Despite falling short of the goal, Harrington and Smith-Gobat free climbed two of the four remaining pitches[14] and felt that, even with the poor weather, they had been very close on a third.[19] Harrington later wrote that she believed 'the crux pitches could go,' setting up a possible return trip for the duo.[20] However, as of 2019, both Harrington and Smith-Gobat were focusing on other goals,[21][22] with no public plans for another attempt on Riders on the Storm.

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References[edit]

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  1. ^ abLaeser, Luke. 'New Zealand's Mayan Smith-Gobat'. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
  2. ^'Mayan Smith-Gobat interview'. PlanetMountain.
  3. ^'Mayan Smith-Gobat: Climber For All Seasons'. Rock and Ice.
  4. ^'Mayan Smith-Gobat, first female ascent of Punks in the Gym at Arapiles'. PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
  5. ^'Salathe Wall'. Mayan Smith-Gobat. Retrieved 2019-03-31.
  6. ^ abFox, Amanda. 'Mayan Gobat-Smith Frees Salathé Wall'. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2019-03-31.
  7. ^'Mayan Smith-Gobat climbs The Salathé Wall on El Capitan'. PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
  8. ^'Walls Without Balls: All Women Big Wall Ascents'. cruxcrush.com. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
  9. ^'climbing : Smith-Gobat and Astorga's records in Yosemite Valley'. www.climbandmore.com. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
  10. ^'Adidas Five Ten | Speed Climbing is Addictive - Mayan Smith-Gobat | adidasoutdoor'. www.adidasoutdoor.com. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
  11. ^ ab'Yosemite Hardwomen: An El Cap Speed Ascent Debrief - Alpinist.com'. www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 2019-03-28.
  12. ^Video: Speed Climbing El Cap Is a Game of Micro Improvements, 2018-07-12, retrieved 2019-03-28
  13. ^ abc'RIDERS ON THE STORM'. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
  14. ^ abc'News - Petzl Patagonia: Mayan Smith-Gobat tests her mettle on 'Riders on the Storm' - Petzl USA'. www.petzl.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
  15. ^'Torres del Paine in Patagonia: Riders on the Storm too stormy for Mayan Smith-Gobat and Brette Harrington'. PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
  16. ^'Riders on the Storm, Central Tower East Face, Torres del Paine, Patagonia - climbing, rock'. www.planetmountain.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
  17. ^Smith-Gobat, Mayan. 'That One Time: The Ultimate Training Day'. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
  18. ^Andrew Bisharat (2016-06-30). 'Brette Harrington's Solo Soul Serenity'. Evening Sends. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
  19. ^ ab'Riding the Storm on Torre Central, Patagonia - Alpinist.com'. www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
  20. ^'Blog - Brette Harrington - Riders on the Storm'. www.sportiva.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.
  21. ^Germany, Norbayerischer Kurier. 'Weltklasse-Kletterin: Mayan Smith-Gobat lässt sich in Plankenfels nieder - Nordbayerischer Kurier'. www.nordbayerischer-kurier.de (in German). Retrieved 2019-03-29.
  22. ^'Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson follow their 'Life Compass' to complete a new route in a 21.5-hour push in the Canadian Rockies - Alpinist.com'. www.alpinist.com. Retrieved 2019-03-29.

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